tween style: faux fur firefly jacket
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As Kristin already mentioned last Friday, the third issue of STYLO hit the digital shelves this week. It's an online magazine that celebrates the joy of sewing stylish clothes for children. This edition features a variety of elegant outfits paired with stunning fashion photography.
Today, Stacy is back to share her contribution to the latest issue of STYLO. She crafted a complete head-to-toe Oliver + S ensemble for her preteen daughter. One standout piece is the faux fur Firefly Jacket, which is both unique and luxurious. This jacket is designed to be reversible, but since it’s made from faux fur, it loses its reversibility. Stacy figured out how to adapt the pattern for a napped faux fur fabric and is going to walk us through her process. Over to you, Stacy!
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I was thrilled to be part of STYLO Issue 3 and get the chance to use some Oliver + S patterns for my growing tween. For this all-black-and-white ensemble, I used three different patterns: the Sailboat Top, the Sketchbook Shorts, and the Firefly Jacket. I made some tweaks to each pattern, which I’ll detail below.
Starting with the Sailboat Top, I transformed it into a knit version by substituting the original woven fabric. Instead of buttons, I opted for hollow hexagon-shaped snaps at the shoulders, allowing the back to overlap the front. Since the Sailboat Top pattern tops out at size 8 (just shy of the tween range), I extended the sleeves by an additional 1.5 inches to accommodate my tall nine-year-old. The length was fine for this design, but I’d usually add more for a standard shirt.
The belt was a fun addition, crafted from a buckle I found at a fabric warehouse, paired with glitter stretch velvet elastic and a silver snap.
Next up were the metallic black and white shorts, made using the Sketchbook Shorts pattern. I wanted shorts with a cuff but couldn’t find any ready-made options, so I took matters into my own hands. The fabric was a bit scratchy and prone to unraveling, so I lined everything with a black-and-white animal print cotton. I treated the lining like interfacing and sewed everything together simultaneously.
Here’s what I changed for the pattern:
- **Zipper Fly:** I added a zipper fly, following an Oliver + S tutorial. My only extra cuts were the fly shield and some additional length for the waistpiece overlap. Adding a fly zipper isn’t difficult—especially once you’ve done it a few times. As my kids are tweens, they need garments with practical closures.
- **Cuff Modification:** I shortened the length by 3 inches and added a cuff. I measured where I wanted the cuff, cut enough fabric for a small hem underneath, and folded it to the desired length. I sewed a seam along the bottom of the cuff and attached it to the side seams to prevent it from folding down.
- **Front Pleat:** I added a 1-inch pleat to the front of the shorts. Ensuring it was symmetrical, I sewed it down about 2 inches. This adjustment helped cinch in the front without needing elastic there. Elastic remains on the back waistband.
Finally, for the faux fur Firefly Jacket, I used a super soft faux fur fabric that resembles black and white striped feathers. I managed to create a size 9 jacket using just one yard (58 inches wide) of faux fur, pairing it with a solid black lining.
I love the pattern piece for this jacket, where the front and back are joined in the center back. However, this doesn’t work well with napped fabrics like faux fur, where the nap runs in one direction.
To adapt the pattern:
- **Separate Front and Back Pieces:** I cut the front and back pieces separately, ensuring the nap ran the same way for both. I also added a generous 1/2 inch seam allowance.
- **Underlying Technique:** When cutting faux fur, you can’t treat it like regular fabric. With long fur, I slid the scissors under the backing, being careful not to cut the fur itself. Otherwise, it ends up looking like your coat got a bad haircut.
- **Sewing Tips:** When sewing with faux fur, use a longer stitch length and gently push the fur on the opposite side of the stitch line. After sewing, use a seam ripper or similar tool to carefully pull the fur out of the seam. This step is crucial to avoid visible stitching marks.
Faux fur might be a bit messy and tricky to work with, but it’s definitely worth the effort. Just remember to shake off the fabric outside after cutting—it’s the same with minky fabric. Otherwise, everything gets covered in tiny fur particles.
I hope you enjoyed my Oliver + S STYLO outfit and the modifications I made to tailor it for a tween. My daughter loved the entire ensemble, especially the plush faux fur jacket.
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And there you have it! A cozy yet stylish winter look that’s perfect for holidays and beyond. Let me know if you have any questions about the modifications—I’d be happy to help!
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