Shengze Textile 30 years

October 16, 2016, held Shengze largest in the history of a celebration, this festival has three elements: to celebrate the "Oriental Silk Market" 30th anniversary, the opening of the Third Shengze Textile Fair, as well as new The completed "Shengze Oriental Textile City" was opened for trial operation.

Today, in the online store micro-shops, the Oriental Textile City is very against the sky. This is a huge monster with a building area of ​​more than 170,000 square meters and more than 1,800 bunks. It can be photographed with a mobile phone. If you don't need stunts to go out 200 meters away, you have to go to the side to get the whole building into the lens.

The locals explained: "The big guy was built because the original oriental silk market was not enough."

It is understood that about 7,000 fabric merchants in Shengze have to be scattered in the urban area of ​​4 square kilometers, 120,000 local population, 330,000 migrants, more than 30,000 floating population per day, and countless heavy trucks as large as 60 tons. The small tricycles are constantly flowing, making this town overwhelmed.

Shengze supplies a quarter of the country's fabrics, as well as more than 2,500 textile factories. Together with several surrounding towns, 70% of the country's chemical fiber fabric production is concentrated here. Since 2005, it has been the country's largest textile market. By 2015, the transaction volume has exceeded 100 billion yuan for three consecutive years. More than 10,000 kinds of textiles are exported to more than 100 countries and regions every year.

In addition to the endless stream of textile end products, most people have no feeling about the textile industry. Nanjing West Road, the largest cloth from the village disappear, to fade household sewing machine, you can see the original tailor shop and hair salon are real estate agent expelled from the community, these quietly changes are the result of changes in the textile industry turned upside down.

From silk to chemical fiber cloth

If you mention Shengze, you can think of silk, great! come on!

The Chinese have a magical ability to plant mulberry trees, use mulberry leaves to raise silkworms, and take a very complicated process to extract the silk from the silkworm cocoons. Each 10 silkworm cocoons are twisted into a thread, and then these wires are processed through a series of techniques. Weaving, printing, dyeing, shaping, cutting into a variety of silk, silk, silk, satin and other silk, this is the world-famous Chinese silk.

It is proud that until today, 85% of the world's silk is still produced in China.

After thousands of years of accumulation, especially since the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the small town of Shengze on the east bank of Taihu Lake has gradually evolved into a Chinese silk capital with the special reputation of “Sunrise Wan Silk, Clothing by the World”.

However, if you think that today's Shengze is still silk, it is wrong.

The name of the Oriental Silk Market began 30 years ago, when the volume of silk trade accounted for about half of the market. Today, this name creates a great misunderstanding for people outside the professional sphere.

Today, in Shengze, the trading volume of silk is only 0.5% in all its textile transactions.

Shengze is actually the world's first "clothing city". The people call it cloth, and it is a chemical fiber cloth. The professional name is chemical fiber fabric.

The disconnect between the name and the content stems from the vicissitudes of the textile market and the textile industry in the past 30 years. For the silk industry of this ancient town, this is "the change that has not happened in 3000 years."

Since the first batch of "good" shirts appeared in the Chinese market in the 1970s, petrochemical fibers have inevitably entered the world worn by Chinese people. Silk is the last battlefield. Like the rock and roll shock symphony, by the end of the 1990s, the silk products of the Shengze Oriental Silk Market had been negligible. The prestigious Huzhou, Hangzhou, Suzhou, and Shengze four silks were all spared, but only Shengze successfully realized the transformation to chemical fiber fabrics.

There is no reason for this change. Look at yourself. How many silk fabrics do you have? More than half of all textile-related clothing items are made of chemical fabrics. Sportswear, jackets, tents for travel, umbrellas, bags...

But as an industry, I have to endure the pain of the bones.

The mulberry tree is going to be cut off, the spinning machine is useless, the dyeing tank has become a place to occupy the place, they have to face unfamiliar, chemical raw materials from petroleum, those weird, never knowing the name, what polyester, Ethylene, polyester , benzene, etc.

It is the farmers of Shengze who accept this challenge. They have no choice.

How is the “first cloth market” made?

In the past 30 years, Shengze Textile Industry has come through continuous and high-intensity changes.

From the perspective of textile machines, Shengze’s machinery and equipment have been in a state of renewal for 30 years. After several updates, from the earliest shuttle machine to the rapier shuttleless weaving machine to the water jet loom, weft knitting machine Nowadays, the most advanced vortex spinning machine and the robotization of the entire assembly line of some advanced enterprises have pushed Shengze textile industry to the forefront of the world textile industry.

When the new industry trend for computer, networking, biotechnology, new materials, full of years, the textile industry in the state of stealth technology conducted in-depth application, thus completing the transformation reborn.

Shengze textile industry's technical equipment is in a leading position in China, and some equipment is internationally leading. It has 8 world-class direct spinning production lines with a capacity of 200,000 tons. The main equipments are imported from Germany, Japan and other countries. One third of the 850,000 shuttleless looms owned by the whole town are the most advanced in the world. Equipment, weaving and no-hopping rate is far ahead in China.

Shengze also has a large number of experienced and skilled workers and technical and management personnel , and many of the key technologies that have been mastered, such as melt direct spinning technology, functional, differentiated fiber production technology, silk weaving technology and no Shuttle weaving technology has great advantages, which is a necessary condition for the industry to thrive.

At the turn of the century, Shengze was involved in the wave of enterprise restructuring in the same way as the whole country. The township enterprises that were originally called “small state-run” began to clarify property rights, which is also a core driving force for the development of Shengze textile industry. From the perspective of enterprises, the earliest rushing companies are state-owned enterprises. Then, collective enterprises, individual enterprises and private enterprises have followed suit to modernized limited companies and joint-stock companies. At present, there are four listed companies in Shengze Town, and two companies are listed in China. The ranks of the top 500.

It was a wave of assault, the front of the group fell, and the next position was changed. In the past 30 years, the global textile market has been ups and downs, and the Shengze textile industry has always been a leader. Today, they have developed into an industrial cluster of the entire industrial chain, with the strength to fight the wind and waves.

From 2012 to 2015, the global textile market entered a long-term deep trough, about 2% of Shengze enterprises shut down production, more companies are under-employed, and profits are almost deprived. But at the end of this harsh industrial winter, Shengze’s statistics show that in 2015, sales and profits both showed double-digit growth. It shows the tenacious viability of Shengze Textile.

This ability to survive is innate. In the 1970s, Shengze farmers began to set up factories privately, producing state-owned enterprises that did not look good, and the profits were extremely low. In the era of planned economy, materials are controlled by the state, and there is no ready-made channel for production, supply and marketing. They must rely on their own search. These things are now very far away, but in fact they are only 30 years old.

Shengze’s successful transition also benefited from the establishment of the “Oriental Silk Market”. At that time, the whole country was still arguing over whether or not to have a market. Shengze established the market where they celebrate their 30th birthday today. It is the leadership of this market that has enabled Shengze people to keep up with the pace of industrial change. It is this market that gives them access to technology and various market resources.

At that time, the market occupies only 8,000 square meters, and there are more than 200 shops. The architectural style imitates the old "Zhuang noodle", and the rows of bungalows are simple. However, the establishment of the market adapted to the trend and demand of the great development of the textile industry and the large circulation of commodities at that time, and soon showed great appeal. Textile manufacturers all over the country have come to open business windows. At the end of the year, the market transaction volume exceeded 20 million yuan.

Weijiang Textile, founded by Wu Weijiang, has expanded its range of products from curtains to bedding, carpets, wall coverings, tablecloths, etc. It has more than 20 stores in Suzhou, Shanghai, Beijing and Tianjin, and its products are exported overseas. With only one curtain, the annual sales volume in Japan reached 12 million meters, and the annual sales exceeded 25 million US dollars, accounting for 8% of the Japanese curtain market.

Wu Weijiang said: "Weijiang Textile can today have the blessing of the (Oriental) Silk Market." Wu Weijiang's business started from the textile machine and developed into a modern industrial chain of weaving, dyeing, printing and sewing. Textile companies.

Weijiang Textile is a microcosm of the history of Shengze's private economy. The deputy director of the Shengze Administrative Service Bureau, who has a 20-year work experience, said: "More than 60% of the business owners of Shengze are from the Oriental Silk Market."

The government-led economy is a major feature of southern Jiangsu, and Shengze is no exception. The development of the Shengze textile industry is also credited by one local government official. The Oriental Silk Market was founded by the then Wujiang County Governor in Guangzhou with various pressure support. All future officials have consistently adhered to the development of textiles. The local officials of Wujiang and Shengze are almost all “experts” in the textile industry.

When the market transaction volume exceeded 10 billion yuan in 1995, all the industrial supporting systems were fully established, providing business operators with comprehensive, full-process financial, legal, tax, financial, consulting, technology, testing, foreign trade, logistics and other processes. Production and business services. It has produced a strong industrial radiation force in the surrounding areas, and has expanded from near to far to form a huge textile industry cluster centered on Shengze.

Hu Weizhen, executive deputy director of the China Oriental Silk Market Management Office, believes that today's market has completely shaken off the traditional market concept and become an important textile trading center, price formation center and information release center in China.

Control pollution

The most annoying and headache of the textile industry is pollution. How to effectively control pollution is still a heavy topic of industrial transformation.

2002 is a boundary marker Shengze textile comprehensive environmental transformation begins.

That year, according to Shengze "Cleaner Production Promotion Law" began 27 printing and dyeing enterprises to implement cleaner production audits, implement limited measures to limit production, monitoring points from 4 to 13, and construction of the first domestic sewage treatment plant.

By 2005, the water quality of the Shengze Jiaxing River section was upgraded from five categories to four categories. Taking into account the multiplication of the industrial scale, the degree of pollution has declined. This is an encouraging change.

Pollution textile industry not only in water, as well as air and the products themselves.

In 2009, Shengze invest 200 million yuan to build a demonstration area after finishing the production of nearly 500 acres of textile, started 47 heavily polluting enterprises, 61 production lines, implementation and management, operation, heating, governance "four focus" sewage All of them entered the sewage treatment plant, and all the waste gas was recycled, and the coal-fired boiler was completely eliminated.

By 2015, the setting machines of printing and dyeing enterprises in key areas have all installed exhaust gas treatment devices. After installation, the exhaust gas collection rate will reach over 95%, the total particulate matter removal rate should reach 85%, and the soot removal rate should reach 80%. At present, the town has installed 219 sets of DMF waste gas recovery devices, 194 sets of toluene recovery units and 18 sets of DOP recovery units.

In recent years, Shengze town government promulgated the "Opinions on promoting the transformation and upgrading of enterprises" file each year, for textile enterprises to develop energy in the production process audits, energy-saving technological transformation, cycling demonstration, cleaner production, emission reduction efficiency ( COD, desulfurization and out of stock, etc. have issued corresponding rules to reward, only in 2014 and 2015, the incentive funds on these projects exceeded 5 million.

Shengze also finishing enterprises to actively promote the "white list" of management system certification, so far, a total of Shing Hong Group and other six companies to become "white list" of qualified units, obtained from the detection of certain azo in exports qualifications dye. Through unremitting efforts, Shenghong Group has successfully passed the “Company and Product Carbon Footprint” certification in 2013, becoming the first company in China to officially use the “carbon footprint” label on printing and dyeing products, and pass the certification to the lowest consumption and minimum. The discharge completes the entire process of printing and dyeing of textile fabrics.

Hong Sheng Industrial Design Center R & D team which lasted more than two years to overcome the technical problems in digital printing ink selection, printing process, clarity and color fastness, etc., invested a total of 12.338 million yuan, this new model has changed the traditional printing The characteristics of printing and dyeing pungent odor, rumbling noise and sewage everywhere have truly achieved green ecological protection.

In 2007, the polyester filament produced by Hengli Chemical Fiber passed the European Green Environmental Certification and built a water reuse project to achieve zero discharge of sewage.

Textile companies have combined pollution control and product quality into one issue, and increased research and development investment in new technologies. Wu Yan, general manager of R&D department of Wujiang Fuhua Weaving Co., Ltd., leads a team of 50 to 60 people in the R&D department. According to reports, Fuhua invested in research and development at 5% of its sales. Currently, there are more than 400 new products developed each year. In the past ten years, it has better adapted to the needs of the market.

Xiao Yan said that the company's newly developed degradable fabrics, if made into clothes, can be directly degraded into carbohydrates after being worn and discarded, and have no effect on the environment. The fabric is less than 20 grams per square meter, and the commonly used fabric is 80-100 grams per square meter.

In the past two years, Shengze textile enterprises have taken precautions and began to transform and upgrade to high-tech, information and green, and enhance their competitiveness. By 2015, eliminate backward Shengze Water Jet Loom 20,000 units, with a wide, wide range of water-jet looms and air-jet looms, significantly enhance product quality, intelligent transformation of funds invested a total of 1.5 billion yuan, the town of 130,000 units weave machine 30% implantation of ERP management software, to achieve a cell phone pipe business; accelerate the creation of a national quality and safety demonstration area, in the development of the national fabric safety standards to ensure on the market each fabrics are green products.

Environment-friendly product innovation springing up, Park Road, Shengze Town Yi Rui Textile Finishing Co., Ltd is a little-known small business, however, the company developed nylon "cold transfer" printing technology, like printers, not only greatly control the amount of pollution, but also not break the heat-resistant nylon, which can not withstand the heat generated by an industry problem under the traditional printing methods, printing and dyeing industry to become one of the most competitive enterprises.

"The successful development of this 'cold transfer' printing technology, we spent more than three years, invested more than 10 million yuan before and after." Company general manager Gao Wenzhen said that Yirui Textile is committed to becoming a global brand strategic cooperation Partners, at present, Uniqlo, Qianqigang, Jack Jones and other brands are already customers of Yirui Textile.

Solving pollution problems with high-tech means is the only way for the textile industry to continue to develop.

Turn to the international market

Shengze's textiles entered the international market very early, but mainly through foreign trade companies. The combination of domestic trade and foreign trade has directly become the global procurement market for silk and chemical fiber fabrics. This is the new pursuit of Shengze Textile and a subversive change in the traditional market.

Shengze Textile has entered a critical point in many aspects, that is, to turn to the international market. This is also the foothold and starting point for many of the major textile companies and local governments in Shengze.

Zhao Juguan, deputy director of the Wujiang High-tech Zone Management Committee and director of the China Oriental Silk Market Management Committee, said that the Shengze textile industry must be viewed from the perspective of “world market”. "Our next focus is on developing foreign trade."

Zhao Juguan said, “Chinese fabrics look at Shengze, Shengze is a primary wholesale market for fabrics. However, foreign companies may not know much about it before. We invite European and American merchants to purchase in the Oriental Silk Market every month, and face-to-face exchanges with local companies. Very good.” It is understood that the Oriental Silk Market is actively promoting the pilot of market procurement and trade, making foreign purchases and export transactions more convenient.

In recent years, Shengze has been accelerating its pace of moving to the international market. Carrying out the fabrics of China Oriental Silk Market Fabrics, and organizing enterprises to participate in international and domestic textile exhibitions for many years, including Europe, Asia, Latin America and Latin America International Fabric Exhibitions in the United States, France, Brazil, etc., and seamlessly connecting with important foreign merchants to develop marketing channels.

Some companies have also begun to consider corporate development strategies from the perspective of international markets. Shenghong Group's annual chemical fiber production capacity is 1.65 million tons. Chief engineer Mei Feng said that in terms of the per capita possession of chemical fiber in the world, the current production capacity is far from enough. Shenghong Group is currently committed to the development of biomass fiber, which has broken the monopoly of DuPont in the international market. China is only able to compete with DuPont on this piece, only Shenghong Group. In 2015, Shenghong Group's sales exceeded 70 billion yuan.

In 2015, Shengze Textile Group participated in the Milan Triennale International Exposition, and the organizer specially held a press conference for Shengze • Yan Xiu “Su Yi” Yang Jie fashion work. This is the first time that Chinese fabrics have enjoyed such treatment, and the fabrics produced in the Oriental Silk Market have made their debut in the international fashion arena.

In the view of Fan Jianlong, director of the Wujiang High-tech Zone Management Committee, this move is not only the starting point for exchanges and cooperation between the ancient oriental silk town and the world fashion capital, but also a powerful starting point for the transformation and upgrading of the Shengze silk textile industry. Shengze wants to attract the attention of famous designers from around the world. Through them, they promote Shengze fabrics, enhance product research and development capabilities, and revitalize Shengze silk culture, thus promoting the Shengze brand to become international and become the world's “fashion fabric capital”.

A number of enterprises and bases with high innovation and scientific and technological research and development capabilities have also emerged in the Shengze textile cluster. It has 17 national textile product research and development bases such as silk, silk, sports function and leisure. Among them, Hengli Group and Shenghong Group were among the top 500 in China, and more than 40 companies have strong self-development capabilities.

At the China International Fabric Design Competition hosted by the China National Textile and Apparel Council in 2014, Wujiang had a total of 168 fabrics to be included in China's popular fabrics . The total number of finalists not only reached a record high, but also ranked first in the county. Of the 168 award-winning fabrics, 166 were selected by Shengze Textiles Co., Ltd., reflecting the strong fabric research and development strength of Shengze Textile. Shengze further enhanced as the "Chinese textile fabric trends release base" and "Fabrics China sourcing base" of influence.

Building "online oriental silk market" is another big move of Shengze Textile. Since the beginning of this year, the textile industry has begun to pay attention to a WeChat client called “Textile Pass”, which released the latest market information of Shengze Textile. This is developed and operated by China Silk Network and became one of the most popular industry clients.

Zhao Juguan said: "There was a concept in the past that Shengze's textile products are mostly intermediate products and there is no standard, so it is not suitable for online trade, but we can set standards without standards. E-commerce is the future trend and can save a lot of cost. ”

Shengze is the first region to explore the "O2O" e-commerce service platform that combines online and offline transactions in the textile industry. In 2015, China's Oriental Silk Market textiles and e-commerce realized online and offline transactions of nearly 50 billion yuan.

In 2007, the Ministry of Commerce released the “China·Shengze Silk Chemical Fiber Index”, which consists of four indexes: price index, prosperity index, Shengze 50 index and flow index. The basic data sampling range includes the Oriental Silk Market and Shengzehe. Production companies in the surrounding areas. Shengze also participated in the formulation of the country's first textile fabric name specification standard, "China Textile Fabric Coded Chemical Fiber Part", which undoubtedly enhanced Shengze Textile's position and voice in the international market.

Shengze Textile has already operated three major e-commerce platforms, namely China Silk Network, Dongfang Yunfang City and China Yibu.com, to achieve online and offline sales. All product information is analyzed by big data, and the global buyers entering the textile city are accurately pushed through App and QR code. This is the intelligent system of Shengze Oriental Textile City, which has just been put into operation. This has created more favorable conditions for Shengze Textile to turn to the international market.