Italian high quality fiber production 诀窍: SPA for yarn

The amateurs watch the excitement and the insiders watch the door. In Rome, Italy, a spinning owner named Carlo Barbara said: "If quality clothes start from the yarn," he immediately opened his underground warehouse to reporters: Dozens of large wooden boxes have been overlapped to the ceiling. There are more than 80 tons of colored yarns processed and processed, and under the yarns there is a stream of mineral streams. It turned out that the owner was building a factory that "processed" the yarn above the buzz of the spring, allowing the yarn to absorb the moisture in the mineral water. He called it fiber SPA. After this processed yarn raw material can be more gentle spinning shirt cloth, cross-stitched trousers fabric, brighter color, fabric softer. Then he took the reporter to his textile factory.

Mr. Barbara refers to wool fibers as living fibers. In his opinion, this is not a metaphor but a reality. In general, they do this by drying the top of the mineral water for a considerable period of time after the dyeing of the yarn to restore the original 20% moisture content before allowing the yarn to enter 15 processing steps. Of course, these 15 steps cannot be made public. In short, if they do not, the textiles they produce will not be so unique. He said, "It's like a person bought a piece of clothing, and this piece of clothing does not feel good to wear, it will be like a car, always stumbled and disobedient."

This seems plausible, but it brings very stable economic benefits to the world-famous Italian style. The wool yarns and cashmere yarns produced here are indeed extraordinary and belong to the highest quality in the world. More than a dozen clothing brands such as Armani, Zeego, and Ralph Lauren in the United States have designated wool yarns to be produced here.

However, like the Italian economy, Barbara's factory had to fight for survival. He needs to deeply understand the Italian business gateway. Since the economic crisis, Italy, and even the entire European economy, have fallen into a precarious situation. The Greek financial crisis, the bankruptcy of Portugal and the country of Ireland, etc., came one after another than a dangerous crisis. As the seventh largest economy in the world, Italy has become one of the most vulnerable countries in Europe. As the main country in the euro area, they have to take measures to save money. It is estimated that by 2012, Italy's GDP growth rate will be 2.7%. But Italy is different from Greece. Most Italian bonds are held by Italians. What's more important is that even though Italy is an export-oriented economy, the economy and technology are always in the hands of Italians, so their problem is not how much debt they have. It's growing too slowly.

Barbara owes $5.8 million to bank debt, but he survives because he has always mastered his own unique technology. And, Italian companies have the flexibility to be big and small. Barbara's business is a family-owned business. Before the 1970s, Barbara was still relying on private businesses that produced special yarns to make a living, but then they went from yarn to clothing, selling a hand-made garment for 4,000 dollars and an annual production value of 15 million dollars, and he The clothing has entered many Italian designer stores. However, last year's output dropped linearly, only half of the previous year.

When it comes to the "Made in Italy" trademark, Barbara said that in the past Italy, like China, could only produce cheap goods. But Italian designers have originality. They import cheap raw materials from China and Bulgaria, and then use their own unique technology to process it. In fact, socialized large-scale production has no rules to follow. The law is unique craftsmanship and innovation. This is why Italy can rise so many clothing brands. The rise of the brand means destroying the unique, innovative products that were not applicable in the past. First of all, trademarks are obstacles that companies must overcome. If you don't have your own brand, you don't have everything, and there aren't many people who really understand this.

To really establish the brand's position must be chosen by the public. Barbara believes that although Italy has become the hometown of the world's famous brands, they have to consult with the authority of the University of Leeds in the United Kingdom, learn from the authority of British yarn fiber design, and then learn from each other's strengths. This is why Barbara is known as the top-most man by a professor at the University of Leeds, UK. Barbara said, "I'm a soloist. I'm against chorus and scoff at stereotypes. I can also join orchestras."

In fact, Barbara's wool yarn production has a chance. In 1962, he was still a photographer for the Vogue journal. A few years later, he married a entrepreneur of Lu Xiannuo Pierstown. He expects to sell his clothing line to the US market, so Barbara asked him to come up with ideas. Barbara said to him, "I don't have experience. I only know if the clothes I wear are good or bad," Pierstown told him. "You only need this to be enough. There is no fashion style, you can design it yourself! ”

Since then, Barbara has set up a factory in a small town at the foot of the Alps, buying a piece of land for 41 euros and 1 square meter. At the time, no business was willing to pay for land. Since then, Barbara has succeeded in setting up factories in other countries in the same way. Today the town has become the center of Italian spinning.

Barbara has been over seventy years old, but he is full of confidence in the future. The reason is that he has found many new customers in China, where he thought it was impossible. He said that the flow of his yarn springs like music and will continue to flow. Of course, he laughed again. "This is not a world of poets, but a vibrant real world. As long as you keep going, you will see hope."